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Diane Savona

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but then there's this....

Just finished reading The Fabric of Civilization by Virginia Postrel. She writes about a man named Ziegler, author of “Weber Kunst und Bild Buch”, in 1677, which was the first book of weaving patterns ever published. This went against the typical secrecy of weavers, who jealously guarded their patterns…. Which makes me wonder why Postrel locks up her own book - unlike The Golden Thread, which let me copy out all my highlighted notes from the Kindle, Postrels book makes it very difficult to copy any of it. Why? The image from her book (Below) showing how ancient sheep compare to modern breeds is great, but I can’t remove the thick black bars around it.

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Reading The Golden Thread was fun: reading the Fabric of Civilization was a bit tedious. LOTS of information, but more like a textbook. It did not lead to as many online hunts. I was able to copy this out: Below is the Stanford Bunny, a computer graphics 3D test model developed in 1994 at Stanford University. The model consists of 69,451 triangles, with the data determined by 3D scanning a ceramic figurine of a rabbit.

stnford bunny.jpg

Below This one has two versions of 3D printed KNITTING, in the shape of the bunny. My mind is incapable of grasping how a machine is able to do 3D knitting.

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Her book did lead me to learn that the same type of punch card used by Jacquards looms was also used by organ grinders (Below):

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Organ grinders led to https://www.glithero.com/woven-songs-textiles about an organ maker and a weaver who worked to produce fabric on the weave machine using organ music punch cards, in effect, weaving music. I hope the link works, because they have a great short video showing how they manage this! (Below, punching music)

glitherowovensongs6.jpg

And my friend Joan Diamond forwarded the link to this short video: Why lotus silk is so expensive https://t.co/MNh64iTdcF
(https://twitter.com/businessinsider/status/1327642490124574720?s=03

lotus silk.jpg

I had read about silk being harvested from the stems, but this shows how it’s done.

Still no stitches happening. All this reading is giving me a better understanding of textiles, but so far it’s not translating into art. Just have to wait and see.

Stay safe. Stay sane.

PS: This just in, from the Style section of the NYTimes (and wiki):

Henry_Ward_Beecher_statue_Columbus_Park_Brooklyn.jpg

On the left is the Henry Ward Beecher Monument. On the right is “An image of David Hammons  wrapping his red-and-orange scarf around the head of a bronze sculpture of a Black woman standing on the base of the Henry Ward Beecher Monument during a snowstorm, an action he says he repeated each winter for five or so years. Sculpted by John Quincy Adams Ward in 1891 to commemorate Beecher, the abolitionist who worked so tirelessly to end slavery, the monument centers on a standing, over-lifesize bronze statue of the heavily cloaked preacher (he is wearing at least four layers of coats). Below, on the granite base by the architect Richard Morris Hunt, the monument also includes a pair of children on one side and, on the other, a freed, formerly enslaved woman placing a palm frond at Beecher’s feet to represent his triumphant efforts in emancipation. Hammons putting winter clothes on the Black figure is a contextualizing, humanizing gesture that asks us to scrutinize this monument and its place in history. It is a far more nuanced, but no less biting, interpretation of public monuments than is usual.”

And looking at the calendar, I think this will be the last post until January 3rd. By then, maybe I’ll have stitching to show you

Saturday 12.12.20
Posted by Diane Savona
 

more from The Golden Thread

I just couldn’t fit all the good stuff into one post, so here’s more:

Clothing for mountain climbing

finch and.jpg

p 189: “Photographs of the Mallory team high up in the Himalayas in 1924 show them bundled up in smocks or tweedy jackets with fiddly buttons bulging over thick woolen scarves, Jaeger trousers, and an eccentric assortment of hats—a rakish trilby here, there an astrakhan cap—that fail to cover fragile ear-tips”.

An Australian named “George Finch had a suit made up to his own design consisting of an “eiderdown lined coat, trousers and gauntlets” covered in balloon fabric. Finch, an Australian, was ridiculed by the snobbish Alpine club and his contemporaries refused to adopt the style, even when it proved far warmer than their own gear”

Re-read that last sentence. Sure, better to lose toes than to look unfashionable…

St Clair also has a good explanation of Almundsen and Scott, their race to the pole and their sartorial choices - who wore Inuit furs, who didn’t and why.

Playtex Spacesuits

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In the 1960’s, NASA had bidders vying for the contract to create spacesuits. The winner was Playtex, the makers of women’s underwear. The “ A7-L Omega suit …was much more akin to making girdles than anyone at the space agency would have cared to admit”. She also spells out detailed information on astronaut underwear. “Clothing and clean underwear remain a problem to this day. There simply isn’t enough room on board spacecraft to provide for daily clothes changes: underwear is often worn for three or four days. The fate of the dirty laundry is varied. Astronauts have used underpants as plant pots, for example, but most end up being sent back into the earth’s orbit in a vessel at a trajectory that will cause it to burn up upon re-entry like shooting stars”.

Rayon

Rayon is a fiber made from natural sources of cellulose, such as wood ..Yes, natural, except…

RAYON.jpg

Creating rayon (and other man-made fibers) requires lots of toxic chemicals, which poison the workers and the environment. And synthetic fibers have made clothing so (relatively) cheap that clothes have become disposable.

blog clothing waste.jpg

I’ve finished reading The Golden Thread, and have just started reading The Fabric of Civilization by Virginia Postrel ( hey, reading about ancient fabric production is a nice escape from Covid/political news). This double-dose has made me acutely aware of the enormous change in textile production over the past few centuries.

Did the see the article (https://www.washingtonpost.com/history/2020/11/29/president-john-tyler-grandson-harrison/ ) in the Washington Post about Harrison Ruffin Tyler?  He’s 91, and he’s the grandson of John Tyler, the 10th president of the United States — who was born in 1790. Both grandfather and father were remarried late in life to much younger women, but still……. A man born in 1790 has a grandson still alive today. It makes you realize the proximity of the past. A woman in 1790 would still be spinning thread and weaving cloth to create clothing. A single garment could take MONTHS to make. And now we throw away clothing without a care….

One last thing: my presentation for the 108 Contemporary Gallery, Art & Archaeology, was recorded, and my son managed to get it linked to my website. So - should you wish - you can go back to the main menu and click on VIDEOS to watch it. Somehow, when I try it, the video seems to start in the middle, or at the end, but just push the red dot back.

Stay safe, stay sane

Diane

Sunday 12.06.20
Posted by Diane Savona
 
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